After three days in what turned out to be (very possibly) the dirtiest but friendliest hostel in Italy, and a complete public transport nightmare that included having to bluntly ask the man sitting opposite to stop taking pictures of me from underneath his jacket, it was going to take somewhere seriously special to pull me out of me out of my Sunday slump before I headed for Rome…luckily, I had decided to go to Positano – which is probably one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been fortunate enough to visit.
The Amalfi Coast’s most photographed cliff-side town had been on my list of places to see for a while, but I was running out of time in Naples and my seriously dwindling budget meant that I couldn’t afford to stay anywhere remotely near Positano…
I’d chatted to a couple of people in the hostel about the best (read cheapest) way to get there and decided at the last minute on my last day of being based in Naples that I just couldn’t miss the chance to go…
I ended up getting back on the Circumvesuviana, which I’d taken the previous day to reach Pompeii and Vesuvius, and then jumped on the fairly cheap bus that runs from Sorrento all the way to Salerno, stopping at every one of the Amalfi Coast’s towns.
It took around an hour to get to Positano, and as soon as the bus turned the corner to enter the town, I knew the trip was going to be worth every penny. I jumped off the bus at the top of the town (unlike all the far more sensible people who stayed on until the second stop at the bottom) to get some pictures from above.
It was mind-blowingly beautiful. I’d walk for a minute and then have to stop to just look at all of the houses again, or the incredible sea view, or the stunning mountain backdrop. When I’d wandered down a little further and the road began twisting around towards the beach, I stopped completely and just sat on one of the little metal benches.
The multi-coloured houses rising up from the sand, the purple flowers climbing out from blue roofs, the insanely, almost too-blue-to-be-real-sea…it gave me actual goosebumps. I feel in love with the town more quickly than I’ve fallen in love with anywhere (or anyone, for that matter!)
After internally declaring my undying love, I walked down through the twisting lanes and shops and picked a restaurant with a seriously appealing balcony looking straight onto the sea. A beer and a cannolo later (Italian life is the good life!) I wandered out into the sunshine and onto the sand.
The view from sea-level was almost as incredible as from above. I walked the length of the beach and then took my flip flops off to walk back along the edge of the water, dodging the few brave sunbathers that seemed completely oblivious to the fact that it was November.
I stopped to sit by the picturesque fishing boats and ending up chatting to a very friendly local called Lorenzo who, as well as filling me in on just how amazing it is to live on one of the world’s most beautiful coastlines, invited me for a freshly-caught fish dinner at his house, the opportunity to meet his mother and try her homemade Limoncello.
I was pretty tempted but I still wanted to wander through the rest of the town before I had to get the bus back and check out some of the little shops, so I told him that next time (and there will definitely be a next time!) I’d take him up on his kind offer…
I spent the rest of the afternoon lazily wandering around and sat for a while at a restaurant on the road back to the bus stop, where (thanks to the bus being over an hour later than it was scheduled to turn up) I managed to catch the most incredible Amalfi sunset.
The rather painful bus journey back (it was so packed with Sunday tourists that I had to stand on the step, back wedged against the door, trying desperately not to fall over every time we went round a corner…which on the Amalfi coast, is pretty much every five minutes, for the hours ride back to Sorrento) couldn’t even dampen my mood…and by the time I got back to Naples and was (looking like an idiot) walking around in my way-too-summery-for-November-clothes, I was so tired but so, so happy to have made it to Positano.
When I finally made it back to the hostel, one of my roommates (I could, and very possibly will write an entire post about this crazy but completely lovely woman) insisted on taking me for the cheapest pizza and beer in the city …which turned out to be incredible and the perfect way to finish my time in Naples.
Have you visited Positano or any of the other incredible towns on the Amalfi Coast? I’d love to hear recommendations for the next time I visit so please feel free to leave a comment below!
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